|Photography Composite Art Gallery
|Click on each print to see it's large image and view the sizes, prices and print description.
Stock # PDC 005
Stock # PDC 015
|"Pioneer Peak Musk Ox"
Stock # PDC 011
|"Wasilla Autumn lake"
Stock # PDC 042
Stock # PDC 002
Stock # PDC 220
Stock # PDC 050
Stock # PDC 217
Stock # PDC 207
Stock # PDC 215
Stock # PDC 208
Stock # PDC 047
Stock # PDC 218
Stock # PDC 059
|Techniques of My Photography Composites
by Dianne Roberson
I began with a digital print taken with my Olympus E-300 or my E-620 digital camera. To insure a sharp image that will
enlarge to 40" x 24", I set my camera to Raw format. Which gives me about 80 images on my camera. I use a 60 gigabyte
photo iPod to download the images and clear my camera for more images when I am out shooting photos. I take photos at
this setting of various subjects including the northern lights, mountain ranges, Denali, cloudy sky, rainy weather, trains, boats,
planes, people, animals, public events, street scenes, lakes, glaciers, and season changes. I keep a file of these images
sorted by subject on my PC and back it up on an external hard drive.
I began a composite photo by selecting a landscape or sky scene and then selecting a focal point consisting of people, or
animals, or transportation objects that will go well with it. The focal point is cut out in PhotoShop creating a separate layer. It
is then sharpened and the edges smoothed with the eraser tool. Secondary objects for the mid ground are cut out and
inserted in another separate layer. The background is airbrushed for smooth edges and a color filter at varying degrees of
transparency is added in a separate layer to add distance or give a special weather effect. Another layer from this color layer
is copied and reversed vertically for the shadows on the ground. All layers are kept separate and saved as one psi file in
PhotoShop and given a Stock #.
Then I flatten the image and save it as a Tiff file Test 1 of that Stock #. Changes are made, as adding more secondary
objects in the mid ground or taking them out, resizing the focal point, or changing the background. When I am satisfied, I
save it with all the layers separated at the original size, then save it flattened as Test 2. It is important to keep Test 1 saved
so you can experiment endlessly with Test 2 and not worry about ruining the work you did before this point. Then an 8" x 10"
color print is made from the flattened Test 2 Tiff file . If I am satisfied, the psi file is flattened at its original size and Tiff files of
40" x 30" down to 10" x 8" are made and saved in a Print file on my PC and the external hard drive back up. If I am not happy
with the Test 2 print, I go back to the multi layered psi file to make changes. The large print files are saved on CD and sent to
a commercial printer for Giclee prints on a CD or e-mailed one at a time to the printer. Jpeg files at 70 psi of each Stock #
are made for use on my web sites, demo CDs, e-mailing campaigns, and advertising on the Internet.
With my digital composites I work in PhotoShop using the various tools to blend the different photos together or create special
effects. Be careful to combine photos that have been taken with the same camera, at the same size settings, with the same
format (Raw, Tiff, jpeg, pdf, etc.) , and the same season with similar light conditions to get good results. Read digital art
techniques on my digital art gallery for more computer painting and digital photo techniques.
|Art World Plus Art Gallery
Alaskan Art by Alaskan Artist Dianne Roberson | Palmer, Alaska 99645
Customer Service Call Monday thru Friday
10 am - 10 pm 1-404-462-4615
|Copyright 2006 © Dianne Roberson All rights reserved.